You’re not crazy, skincare is confusing. My best read on the situation is this tends to happen if business and marketing creates an industry, what people think will sell drives the structure and conversation, not simplicity, logic and what is best for the end user.

Essences, serums, gel-creams… they weren’t built by some unified governing body that took into consideration how the public would understand, use and consume products. The growth of the industry and categories was more organic and therefore, chaotic. Let’s go through some examples. Essences, which are exploding in popularity in the US, come from Japan. And if my DMs are any indication, people are confused. How to explain to someone that they’re basically whatever you want them to be. Some are hydrating (like a serum or a moisturizer), some are astringent (wick away oil), some are exfoliating (like a chemical peel), some are so moisturizing and oil-forward they could replace your moisturizer.

While beauty waters originated in Japan hundreds of years ago, serums are an mor recent invention. Credited to renowned Hungarian Erno Laszlo (who also preached about double cleansing!), Dr. Laszlo created serums to help celebrities and princesses clear their skin with solutions that didn’t exist in the medical world. So, he created a category. Massive commercial success ensued. You think using skincare ingredients in makeup is a new trend? This man invented it. Upon seeing the popularity, like a trending TikTok, so many brands jumped on the serum train.

Even the terminology within the skincare space was created by a brilliant business woman. Terms like “oily skin” and “combination skin” aren’t medical terms or conditions, they were invented by the beauty magnate Helena Rubenstein. They’re states of skin that help you define your skin type. This then allows for recommendations to buy different products. Rosacea is a medical condition, there are prescriptions to help tackle the inflammatory condition. But dry skin? World’s your oyster on finding the skincare products that’ll keep skin moisturized all day long.

This is why I always struggle with the question “what serum should I be using?” or “what moisturizer is best?” Skincare is deeply personal, I can’t recommend a product to you without getting to know you first. Skincare, while it can change your skin, it’s not a prescription. The ritual matters as much as the result.

So, let’s go back to basics. I’ve found success in skincare by starting with one key question: What am you trying to solve? Why are you here? When it comes to skincare, always start with you, and your needs—not with a specific category or trendy ingredient. If you feel like you “should” be using something but don’t know why, that’s marketing (or a compelling influencer) getting to you. To make this easier, I’ve created a framework:

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Skincare Essentials (The Basics)

This is the bare minimum most people need for protected, healthy skin: cleanser and sunscreen. If you live in a cave and never see the sun, to be determined on sunscreen but I have questions.

Advanced Skincare (Treat)

From here, you can drill down into specific concerns you want to treat. It’s here that I start to think of ingredient stories and what are shown in research to tackle my concerns.

Delivery Systems (The Categories)

It’s important to remember that the category is only directional. A brand places a product in a category based on perception, pricing strategy and most importantly; product positioning.

There are no clear and consistent rules, and brands take creative license. For instance, some essences are richer and more emollient than moisturizers, while some moisturizers are so thin they might as well be hydrating serums.

In practice, if your skin is dehydrated (lacks water), you can achieve this with multiple delivery systems. Essences, serums, moisturizers, mists, and even cleansers all claim to help with hydration. Your wants will vary depending on your skin, the season, and your environment. If you live in a humid climate and have oily skin, you may not need a moisturizer. That advice is terrible to someone who lives in a dry, cold climate. See how complicated skincare advice can get when you start personalizing it? We’re all special snowflakes.

My Routine

Let me use myself as another example. I’m 37, I have husk-dry, sensitive skin. I want to maintain elasticity while keeping my skin clear and smooth. Here’s how I map it out:

• Cleanse: I need a gentle cleanser that removes makeup. Something that is mild because anything too harsh strips my barrier and causes irritation. I avoid any active ingredients in my cleanser to prevent further irritation.

• Treat: This is where things get interesting:

  • Hyperpigmentation + Pollution: I use an antioxidant-rich essence then serum that addresses both concerns.

  • Dry skin: I layer a thicker milky essence, gel-cream moisturizer, and regular moisturizer. This is extra, but I enjoy drenching my skin in hydration. Particularly at night.

  • Wrinkles: I rely on retinoids, a gentle exfoliant, and a more intense peel once or twice a week. Important to note that these ingredients help solve for hyperpigmentation as well. Many ingredients are multitaskers.

• Sunscreen: I use a hydrating sunscreen daily. Even in winter, if the UV index is above 2, sunscreen is non-negotiable. Given how much I put my skin through (see: retinoids and peels), I’m not taking any chances—sunscreen rain or shine.

• Important to note: I’ve become quite maximalist in my routine, this is not a “need” but what I personally like.

• My full routine is here and yes, these are affiliate links!

Welcome to Keeping It!

My take on reviews. In this series, I’ll explore skincare categories, product launches, and anything else you want me to dive into. My first topic will be the rise of essences, Shiseido’s lasting impact, the KBeauty boom, some of my favorites and how to use them. If there’s a specific product or category you’d like me to investigate, let me know in the comments.

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